Les Volontaires

Sean Grossnickle
Sean Grossnickle
Senegal 2017

Je vais vous parler des autres volontaires ici. C’est vraiment une grande partie de mon expérience au Sénégal, ils m’ont enseigné beaucoup. La plupart est européenne mais il y a des américains aussi. Jusqu’à présent j’ai rencontré plus de 40 volontaires. Je suis le plus ancien depuis longtemps mais je me souviens quand je suis arrivé. Il faut avoir des guides pour vous montrer tous les trucs de la ville. J’espère être un bon guide pour tout le monde. Ils ont des points de vue différents mais nous nous entendons quand même. Il me semble que chaque personne étrangère a des avis sur les Etats-Unis et chaque personne m’a demandé mon avis sue Donald Trump. Je souhaite que les américains sachent plus des autres pays parce que je voudrais avoir une opinion du président d’Italie.

Le seul coffee-shop en ville/The only coffee shop in town

Le seul coffee-shop en ville/The only coffee shop in town

Je vais vous raconter les mémoires les plus précieux et les plus riches pour moi. Je suis arrivé avec Laura, une française, qui a fait tout avec moi. Parce que nous étions nul ensemble, je me sentais plus à l’aise d’être incapable pour mes premières semaines ici. Elle a mangé beaucoup de Chocopain et ne me parlait que français. C’était bien pour moi parce que j’ai eu la chance de pratiquer le français tout de suite. Je suis très reconnaissant pour ça. Lewis était notre guide. Il nous a montré toutes les choses de Saint Louis, notamment comment prendre l’autobus et trouver les bons coins. De lui j’ai appris ce que les anglais pensent de leur pays, il est très intéressant. Rachel m’a enseigné un peu de dorien et je me suis amusé au travail avec elle. J’ai eu des très bonnes discussions avec Alicia (une suisse) et je les ai appréciés beaucoup. Nora, Salome, Jake, Emily et Vittorio sont inoubliables aussi.

Je suis très reconnaissant aussi aux sénégalais pour m’accueillir bien. Ma mère d’accueil m’a aidé pendant mes premières semaines et aussi Madeline (la plus jeune). Habib, un employé de Projects Abroad était indispensable. Il m’a enseigné les prix, comment négocier bien, où je peux manger et les quartiers de la ville. J’ai même visité chez lui. Après 8 ou 9 semaines, je connais bien aussi les propriétaires des boutiques, des hôtels et le coffee-shop. Quand j’ai eu une question comme « ou est-ce que je peux trouver une coiffure qui fait les coupes pour les toubabs », je leurs ai demandé. Cheikh, mon boss, m’a expliqué la situation de business ici et m’affiché ce qui se passe après on reçoit une licence ici. Il n’y a pas des jobs pour les étudiants après l’université. Sénégal n’a pas encore une économie orientée sur les services donc la femme de Cheikh qui vient de recevoir son master ne peut pas facilement trouver un job. Cela progresse un peu mais il y a beaucoup de chemins à parcourir.

C’est une belle expérience interculturelle pour moi et j’ai rencontré beaucoup d’amis. J’espère que j’ai amélioré mon français ici depuis je suis arrivé. J’ai peur de perdre mon niveau de français un jour, j’ai entendu beaucoup d’histoires où cela s’est passé. Saint Louis va me manquer, je la connais bien maintenant. Je suis enthousiaste pour mes nouvelles aventures mais je vais laisser des choses aussi.

Les repas comme ce repas vont me manquer/Meals like this I am going to miss

Les repas comme ce repas vont me manquer/Meals like this I am going to miss

Maintenant il y a 5 volontaires chez moi. Il est vraiment bizarre mais maintenant j’ai des nouveaux amis avec qui je parle. Je suis désolé pour le retard du dernier poste, les nouveaux me rendent occupé de temps en temps. Après ça il me reste 2 postes de plus. Je vais essayer d’être à l’heure avec les deux, mais on verra parce que je serai en train de voyager. Vittorio est malade alors je dois l’aider cette semaine. Je me souviens mes premières semaines ici. Je ne veux pas remontrer à ce temps-là.

 

I want to tell you about the other volunteers I have met here. They are a large part of my experience here in Senegal and they have taught me a lot. Most of them were/are European but there are some Americans as well. Up until now I have met over 40 volunteers. I have been the “eldest” volunteer for a while now but I remember coming. You need to have a guide to show you how everything works in town. I hope I am a good guide for everyone. There are many different points of view but we all get along just as well. I feel like everyone who does not live in the USA has an opinion on our country and asks me what I think of Donald Trump. I wish that Americans knew more about other countries because I would like to have an opinion on the Italian president. 20170726_215101

I want to share some of my most precious memories here. I arrived with Laura, a French girl, who did everything with me. Because we were both lost, I felt better about being incompetent for my first few weeks. She ate a lot of Chocopain and only spoke French, which was good for me because I had a chance to practice my French right off the bat. I am very thankful for that. Lewis (a English dude) was our guide. He showed us around Saint Louis, particularly how to take the taxis and the bus. From him I learned what English people think about their country, it’s quite interesting (but that’s a whole other story). Rachel (the Scottish girl) taught me some Doric and I had fun working with her. I had some great discussions with Alicia (the Swiss girl) and I appreciated them a lot. Nora, Salome, Jake, Emily and Vittorio are unforgettable as well.

I am very grateful to the Senegalese as well for welcoming me to their country. My host mother helped me a lot during my first few weeks as well as Madeline (the younger). Habib, an employee of projects abroad, was indispensable. He taught me the prices and how to negotiate them, where to eat and the neighborhoods in town. I have even been to his house several times. After 8 or 9 weeks, I also know all the owners of the stores, hotels and the coffee shop. When I have a question like “where do I find a barber who can cut foreigners’ hair”, I ask them. Cheikh, my boss, explained the business situation in Senegal and showed me what happens after someone gets their college degree here. There are not a lot of jobs for students who graduate from college. Senegal does not yet have a service economy and so his wife, who just finished her masters, is having a hard time finding a job. It is getting better but there is still a long way to go.

Le boss et moi

Le boss et moi

It has been a great intercultural experience for me and I have made many friends. I hope I have improved my French since coming here. I am afraid I will lose my level of French one day, I have heard a lot of stories where people lose their language skills after not using them for a while. I will miss Saint Louis, the town that I know so well. I am excited for my new adventures but I am going to leave some good things behind as well.

Now there are 5 volunteers at my house. It is really weird but now I have people to talk to while at home. I am sorry for the lateness of the last post; the new people keep me busy. After this there will be two more posts. I am going to try to be on time with the new ones but we will see because I will be travelling. Vittorio is sick and I have to help him this week. I remember my first weeks here. I do not want to go back.

Less then flattering face, but this is me giving a loan

Less then flattering face, but this is me giving a loan

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Le Journal quotidien/The Daily Journal #12

Sean Grossnickle
Sean Grossnickle
Senegal 2017

Jour 74 – On a fait les changements finals pour Moustapha (ahamdouillah). Vittorio et moi sommes allés en ville pour acheter un mètre de tissu, une multiprise et un coupe-papier. L’après-midi on a fait les rapports hebdomadaires et a visité deux bénéficiaires : une pour lui expliquer le plan de business et l’autre pour voir la machine qui fait la transformation pour le maïs. Nous avons bu à Flamingo avec les autres volontaires et après Allison, Bertrand, Marianne, Vittorio et moi avons mangé à un restaurant thaï.

Jour 75 – J’ai rencontré la nouvelle fille française qui est venu hier. On est allé à la plage pour nous baigner. Après on est retourné chez nous, il y avait une autre française qui vient d’arriver. Elle est ici pour longtemps de faire le service civil. Et ce soir apparemment il y aura une autre fille qui va arriver. Nous serons 5. On a mangé à Délices du fleuve pour les chantilly.

Jour 76 – Nous avons fait la randonnée avec Mme Faye ce matin pour 2h et demi. J’étais très fatigué. On est allé à Keur Dada pour nous baigner là-bas. On a mangé là-bas et profité de la piscine. J’ai discuté un peu avec Aurone sur les choses américaines. Vittorio a essayé de m’enseigner italien. C’était nul. La vitesse et le rythme sont très importants pour la langue. J’ai appelé mes parents.

Jour 77 – Nous avons préparé les cours pour les femmes. J’ai commencé le plan de business pour Djibi, mais je pense qu’il nous a donné les faux chiffres parce que sinon, il est vraiment riche et n’a pas besoins de prêt. J’ai commencé mon sac pendant l’après-midi. Mes femmes ne sont pas encore venues au bureau, malheureusement. Je suis allé aux Délices du fleuve pour manger de la glace. J’ai rencontré une autre fille française qui vient de Toulouse. On a discuté le « Brain Drain » aux Etats-Unis. Il n’y a pas d’eau.

Jour 78 – Nous avons fait des visites à Samba et à Djibi. Djibi, comme Adama, nous a donné les chiffres différents chaque fois. Comme ça c’est nul de créer un plan de business. Vittorio est malade et a vomi trois fois hier soir. Nous avons visité Arouna Baldé pour faire un questionnaire. Ce soir on a mangé à La Kora pour fêter les anniversaires de Lorena et Angus.

Jour 79 – Nous avons présenté 4 bénéficiaires à Moctar, il a dit oui aux 4 ! J’ai fait beaucoup de choses pour ma valise, c’est vraiment bizarre que j’aille partir dans 2 jours. L’après-midi, Djibi est venu encore pour trouver une solution pour le plan de business. Il est nul parce qu’il ne compte rien, même les achets, par jour donc il est impossible de calculer ses couts et bénéfice. J’ai appelé Quinn. On a mangé chez Amina (yassa poulet) pour mon repas de départ et après on est allé au concert à Flamingo.

Jour 80 – J’ai fini mes valises ce matin. Je suis allé en ville pour acheter mes dernières choses avant de partir. J’ai pris des photos de chaque propriétaire que je connais bien. J’ai fait ma deuxième évaluation pour Projects Abroad. On a donné les prêts à Seynabou, à Majigene et à Daba. Nous avons mangé de la glace pour ma dernière nuit ici.

 

Day 74 – We made the final changes for Moustapha (thanks be to God). Vittorio and I went to town to buy a meter of fabric, a power strip and a letter-opener. In the afternoon, we did the weekly reports and visited two beneficiaries: one to explain the business plan and one to see how she processes corn to make it ready to sell. We drank at Flamingo with all the other volunteers and after Bertrand, Marianne, Allison, Vittorio and I ate at a Thai restaurant.

Day 75 – I met the new French girl who got here last night. We went to the beach to go swimming and relax. After we came back to our place, there was another French girl who just arrived. She is here for quite a while to do civil service. And apparently tonight another girl is going to arrive as well. We will have 5 volunteers here then. We ate ice cream sundaes at Delices du fleuve.

Day 76 – We did the walk this morning with Ms. Faye for two and a half hours. I was quite tired afterwards. We went to Keur Dada to swim. We ate there and took advantage of the pool. I had a discussion with Aerone over some American topics. Vittorio tried to teach me Italian. It was hopeless. The speed and rhythm are very important for the language. I called my parents.

Day 77 – We prepared the courses for the women. I started the business plan for Djibi but I think he gave us the wrong numbers because if not, he is a very rich man and does not need a loan. I started packing during the afternoon. My women have not yet come to the office, unfortunately. I went to Delices du fleuve to eat some ice cream. I met a French girl who comes from Toulouse. We discussed the brain drain in the USA. There is no water here.

Day 78 – We paid a visit to Samba and Djibi. Djibi, like Adama, gives us different numbers each time. It hopeless when that happens to try and create a business plan. Vittorio is sick and vomited three times last night. We visited Arouna Balde to do a questionnaire. We ate at La Kora to celebrate Lorena and Angus’ birthdays.

Day 79 – We presented 4 beneficiaries to Moctar, he said yes to all 4! I packed a lot in my room, it’s really weird that I will be leaving in two days. In the afternoon, Djibi came again to help find a solution to his business plan. It’s hopeless because he does not keep track of anything, not even his purchases, so it’s impossible to calculate his costs and profit. I called Quinn. We ate at Amina’s house (yassa poulet) for my departure meal and after we went to concert at Flamingo.

Day 80 – I finished packing this morning. I went to town to buy my last-minute souvenirs and to take pictures of all the store owners I got to know. I did my second evaluation for Projects Abroad. We gave loans in the afternoon to Seynabou, Majigene and Daba. We went to eat ice cream at Delices du fleuve for my last night.

In brief – my first two weeks at Urban Light

Lauren Dekleva
Lauren Dekleva
Thailand 2017

It’s difficult to know where to begin, because the last few weeks have been such a whirlwind!

On Tuesday, June 11th, I officially began my internship at Urban Light. My first day began with a short ride in the CCT van, and when I got to the Urban Light Youth Center (ULYC) a little after 10am, the staff was just starting to arrive (that’s something to note about the culture in Thailand – everyone runs on “Thai time,” or anywhere from 10-45 minutes late. As a person who is perpetually late, it works just fine for me!). When Alex, the founder of Urban Light, arrived, she conducted an orientation for me and discussed the history of Urban Light, introduced me to the staff (there are 11 people on the staff, and besides Alex, they’re all Thai!) and the other current intern Zuzu, went over my tasks and responsibilities, and informed me of the daily schedule.

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Each day, the staff and I arrive around 10am, and it’s usually pretty quiet at the center until noon, when lunch is served. Everyone eats together family style, and you know when it’s ready: the boys come up to the office saying gin kao, gin kao (let’s eat!). After lunch, it’s time for workshops, lessons, games, programming, or anything to interact with the boys and keep them engaged. So far, I’ve played UNO with them (they love UNO soooo much! One boy in particular would play all day if you’d let him!), and a few games of ping pong. So far, there hasn’t been much programming – Alex was telling me it’s difficult to get a consistent program rolling, because the boys usually won’t participate for long unless it’s really fun and interesting. Around 4pm, things quiet down again until the center closes at 5pm.

Of course, this schedule is not a hard and fast rule (with the exception of lunch!). Since the ULYC is a drop-in center, every day is different. Some days, it’s loud and crazy with boys everywhere – playing games and guitar, watching movies, and listening to music. Some days, all they want is a hot meal, a shower, and a place to rest. Being adaptable, flexible, and able to tune into their moods and needs is key.

So far in my internship, I’ve:

  • shadowed Zuzu, the other intern. She’s awesome, and we get along really well. She’s also great at engaging the boys, so I’ve learned a lot from watching her. For example, the best way to interact with the boys is a delicate balance of persistence and doing your own thing. Sometimes, if you want to involve a boy in a lesson or activity, you have to enthusiastically pester him and take charge of the moment until he’s engaged. Other times, it’s best to relax and do your own thing: start an art project or play the guitar, and eventually, if they’re interested, the boys will join you. Again, it’s all about learning to read the situation!
  • helped Zuzu with her greeting card project. Right now, we’ve just finished designing and painting holiday and greeting cards with one of the boys. We’re planning on selling them to generate income for Urban Light.
  • started to build relationships with UL’s participants through games of ping pong and UNO and my favorite, a guitar/ukulele jam session! It’s definitely taken some time for the boys to get used to me, but I’m starting to earn their trust. Every time they ask me to play a game or listen to music, it’s a little victory. One boy even insisted on walking me part of the way home this week!
  • began brainstorming and implementing the social media part of my role. I’m enjoying coming up with ideas for content development and generating awareness online, and am so excited to use my communications experience in this way. Alex and I have also started talking about her ideas for a social enterprise project, which I’ll start assisting her with soon.

I’ve learned a lot so far. But, as one would expect, there have also been significant challenges and moments of discouragement as well. However, even though I’ve felt lost and inadequate at times, I’m trying to give myself the space and grace to settle into the role. And truly, I have such an incredible support network here! The staff at UL and CCT are amazing and have done so much to encourage and prepare me.

My biggest challenges so far have been:

  • the language barrier. Oh yeah. This is definitely top of the list. For one, it’s difficult to form relationships with the participants at UL when you can’t communicate clearly.  I want so badly to connect with them in a meaningful way, but I need to learn more Thai. I’m trying not to get discouraged because I know it’s a process and every day, I learn something new. I’ve made flashcards for words and phrases, so I can say hello and thank you and how are you? and what’s your name? I can even play UNO in Thai! And there have been funny moments too. On my third day, I said hello to a boy in Thai and he responded with “you say that a lot...” (Zuzu translated). I was bummed for a moment, but he was right! And it motivated me to learn some new phrases.
  • my name. Turns out, Lauren is really hard for the boys to say. So, I’ve started introducing myself to them as Lo, one of my nicknames back home.
  • finding my niche. Since, I often can’t use words to engage the boys, I have to figure out other ways to interact. Painting is good, and so are UNO games, but as I mentioned, I recently played music with a few of the boys and it was a blast! I just played along on a uke while they played guitar and sang in Thai, and it was great. So, maybe that’s my niche 🙂 To be determined.
  • the greeting card project. I’m seeing firsthand some of the challenges of workforce development social enterprises! For example, we were on a schedule to get the cards done by a deadline, but the boy who worked with us had a lot of important things to worry about, so it was tricky to find the time to work on them with him. In addition, it was hard to communicate, given the language barrier, exactly what we wanted the cards to look like, and then to give feedback and edits after the fact. But, it all worked out, and we ended up with some beautiful cards to sell. He is super sweet, great to work with, and a very talented painter.

One last bit – I’ve had some other adventures the past few weeks! I visited Pai (a hippie/expat village in the mountains), went to Mukata (mostly a local place that has Mongolian-style bbq), shopped in a local mall (and realized how much more expensive the markets can be), tried to speak in Thai at the market (before realizing it didn’t matter because I couldn’t understand people’s responses), took a Thai cooking class, and found a way to stream the new Game of Thrones season with my roommates at the volunteer house.

Team Tengeneza

James Mixon
James Mixon
Africa 2017

They wanted to call themselves Team Simba, but I protested; it was so touristy. So they consented to “Team Tengeneza,” which means to create or make in Swahili. We were there to make a film, make a summit, make a difference.

Reuben, team captain, senior guide, is a sturdy and jovial mountaineer with the cheerful resilience of one who has been walking steep miles since he was a boy. His home is in the immense forest stretching out from Mt. Kenya, close to the town of Karatina, where his mother owns a tea farm and elders a Presbyterian church.

Reuben taking a breather during a long hike

Reuben taking a breather during a long hike

Like many guides on Mt. Kenya, Reuben went to Nairobi to attend the Kenya Utalii College for tourism and learned the trade by working as a safari guide in Kenya’s famous game parks. He then turned his eye back on the mountain that loomed over his childhood and began to explore both its slopes and its economy. First he was a porter, then a cook, and finally a junior guide for his uncle’s small trekking outfit. His eagerness and aptitude led him to apply and gain a scholarship to the National Outdoor Leadership School, a U.S.-based wilderness educator. He studied mountaineering in Washington state and wilderness medicine in Wyoming before returning to Kenya as a fully qualified guide. This unique opportunity made him of the most experienced mountaineers working on the mountain, and he began to lead trips not just to Mt. Kenya but to the mountains of Tanzania and Uganda as well.

At the tea farm

At the tea farm

Reuben has two small children, Eston and Nelius, with his wife Faith. They live in a small apartment behind the agro-vet that Faith operates during the day. Business on the mountain has been poor in recent years; whereas Reuben used to take as many as four trips to the mountain in a month, he has only led four trips this entire year to date. Thus, like every other guide, porter, or ranger that I met on the mountain, Reuben must have an additional and more reliable source of income. Like most, he owns and works a shamba, or farm. He specializes in onions.

The other porters, Peter, Timothy, and Humphrey, also told me they were farmer, although the others sniggered when Humphrey insisted upon this. It turns out he grows marijuana.

The squad

The squad

All the men are of the Kikuyu tribe, and for the days I was with them I grew accustomed to the soft rolling timbre of the Bantu language. Trust and friendship were obvious in the interminable laughter that rippled the cold night air around the chai boiling on an ancient kerosene stove.

Like Reuben, as boys these men hauled water up steep hills every morning and evening; now they haul luggage for up to ten hours a day. Reuben’s company outfits their employees better than most, but it’s not unusual to pass (or be passed by) porters with chairs, tables, crates of eggs, gas canisters or iron skillets strapped to the outside of their already bulging packs. Mt. Kenya is challenging terrain even with the lightest pack–the scree, the angle, the altitude–and I saw many porters (including my own) panting, coughing, and grimacing as they slogged upwards.

A star-spangled journey

A star-spangled journey

Team Tengeneza cheerfully put up with my constant videography; I filmed them walking, cooking, resting, chatting, and more. Reuben took me to his farm, introduced me to his family, and sat through longs interviews about working on the mountain. Filming a documentary is, I’ve learned already, mostly about relationship, getting people to be comfortable enough around you to just be themselves, to let you see life as it really is. This took time, and I had a number of other guides, porters, and clients tell me to shove off, but with patience I was gradually able to ask the questions I really wanted. Why do you work here? For the money? For the view? What do you think of the wealthy white tourists that give you work? What about the British alpinists who still operate as though the mountain is theirs?

Joy, resentment, humor, and truth slowly emerged from these men. My team learned to trust me and to let me sit with them around the kerosene stove. They have a hard life, but a good life, and I’m just beginning to understand it.

It's a unique privilege to work in such a beautiful place.

It’s a unique privilege to work in such a beautiful place.

Kirinyaga

James Mixon
James Mixon
Africa 2017

I just spent 10 consecutive nights on Mt. Kenya, Kirinyaga, the heart and lifeblood of the country that’s inherited its name.

The imposing alpine ridgeline

The imposing alpine ridgeline

Ascending Mt. Kenya has been described as similar to just walking north from the equator, except that every thousand miles north is only a hundred meters up; you essentially pass through every biome on earth within a few days. When you arrive at the gate of Mt. Kenya National Park, you have already driven up out of arid savannahs, through lush farmland and into a dense deciduous forest, all in the space of a few hours. Hiking inward from the northernmost gate near the village of Sirimon, you literally cross the equator as you traverse a jungle rife with buffalo and elephants. After watching the trees grow shorter before your eyes, you emerge after only two hours of walking into an impeccable moorland dressed in heather and moss that would not be out of place in Braveheart. Another day’s hike sends you across mountain bogs and frozen tundra a mere 40 kilometers from tea farms and grazing cattle down below. Here the equatorial climate (summer at day, winter at night) encourage the alpine foliage to swell to unusual sizes–lobelias as tall as grown men and many-headed senecio forests–hibernate instead of die, and to bloom just once in their decades-long lifespans.

A Seussian landscape

A Seussian landscape

By 14,000 feet, most vegetation has given way to barren slopes, great moraines where the legendary glaciers of Mt. Kenya used to sit. Even in the last 30 years, the mountain’s glaciers have shrunk at a disconcerting rate. The great white blanket that the Kikuyu believed their god to sleep upon is no longer there, but even the rocky scars it has left awe the imagination.

Above this line of life, rock and ice dominate, and Mt. Kenya is famous for its intimidating cliff faces, arduous routes that draw alpinists from across the globe to test themselves on Africa’s greatest rock climb. The climbs are so demanding that less than 1% of park visitors actually reach Point Batian, the highest peak in Kenya.

Ascending the technical routes. Cold, hard, and scary.

Ascending the technical routes. Cold, hard, and scary.

Most are satisfied with the still demanding trek to Point Lenana, the third highest peak. To avoid the regular snowstorms that immerse the mountain in dark clouds by midday, climbers of any peak must wake many hours before dawn and struggle up the steep scree under a breathtaking African night sky. One can watch tiny pricks of light from headlamps slowly ascend the mountain like a line of brilliant ants.

Reuben on the dawn patrol

Reuben on the dawn patrol

On a truly clear morning, the sun reveals the mountain’s monolithic cousin far away to the south, Kilimanjaro. Next week, I’ll be there.

A startling clouded sunrise on Pt. Lenana

A startling clouded sunrise on Pt. Lenana

What a Journey so Far!

Karah Waters
Karah Waters
Tanzania 2017

WOW. WOW. WOW.

How do I explain the experience I have had so far with words. I am in love with the culture and people here. I can’t believe it has already been almost two weeks since I arrived! I will try to start from the beginning! I loved all of the people that I met on the flights. When I landed in Istanbul I was very nervous just with everything that I have heard going on in Turkey. However, I was greeted at the gate by two fellas that were both from Dar. Just seeing their bright, warm smiles put me at ease. The one thing that was so shocking to me was when I was flying over Africa. It was night time and it was pitch black outside. It looked as if we were flying over the ocean. No lights anywhere. Every now and then I would see a twinkle of light down below but the only light that really showed was the moon. Once I landed in Africa it was 2:30AM. All of my flights ended up getting messed up so I was about 5 hours late getting in. However, I was as excited and energetic as ever! I was a bit nervous with getting my Visa and Business Permit but it all worked out great. As I walked outside to meet the people picking me up from the organization no one was there. It was almost 4AM at this point and there were people everywhere. Taxi drivers were trying to get me to go with them.  People dressed in hijabs and everyone was speaking a different language. I backed up against a wall just so I was aware of my surroundings. After traveling over 24 hours and hardly sleeping on the plane all I wanted was a person that I knew to come pick me up. I was a little frightened with being in a foreign country at 4AM. I made a few phone calls and they were there in about 30 minutes. I was so happy to get to the house and take a shower. I was so excited to see what was in store for next few days!
This first picture really represents how it’s been in Tanzania so far.

Half way walking blinded because of the unknown but loving every step.

The people in Tanzania are absolutely amazing and so loving. My admiration and love for these people is abounding. Every day I am more and more astounded. The people here are so hardworking and gentle hearted. They reach out to you with open arms. These photos are from last week. A nurse that I had just worked with for 2 DAYS simply said to me,

“You’re coming home with me today, okay? I get off at 12:30PM.”

And buh-bam, she drove me all the way to her home from Dar. She has 3 beautiful daughters and 1 handsome baby boy who is the youngest. Just like my family. Her husband is a pastor and they welcomed me into their home.

I had dinner with them and got to play with their children!

and they took me to their church. They are Lutheran and that church service was absolutely unbelievable. I have never had to place myself in a situation where I was the minority and didn’t understand a language being spoken around me. Although I could not understand the words of the songs at church I was so touched. Everyone was so happy and dancing to the songs. I could understand what they were saying even though I didn’t know the words.
Then she drove me all the way home. Simply just because.

The nurses and doctors I have worked with over these last few days have been the ultimate kindest healthcare professionals I have ever worked with. On my first day one of the guys took the bus with me and walked me home because all of the other interns had left and I was worried about going home by myself. It was about an hour and a half of his time and he did it just because. A nurse bought me a Pepsi on my first day as well simply because I looked tired. There have been multiple times where people share their food with me during lunch. This was my first official meal in Africa:

and this is actually what I had for dinner this evening!

untitled  Octopus !!!

I have been very adventurous with the food and I try to eat everything I am offered!

Everyone has been so helpful with teaching my Swahili. The nurses love teaching you new words. I also have a Swahili teacher at the Work the World the House. His name is Jacob

j

Swahili teacher He is such a sweet man!

One of the main words I hear ALL the time is:

MUZUNGU

This means white, foreign person. Everyone says it and will call you that. It is kind of funny. People will be talking in Swahili and all of a sudden you will hear “muzungu” and you know they are talking about you even if you don’t know what else they are saying. Whenever I walk by everyone stares. The children love playing with my hair. I am definitely the minority here and it is a very interesting perspective to be the minority. People will try to raise prices if you’re a muzungu. Whether at the market or on the tuk tuk which is a type of transportation kind of like Uber but very different at the same time. They call it the “Muzungu Price.” You have to bargain the prices so they don’t rip you off, haha. Another type of transportation that I take every day to and from the hospital is the Dala Dala which is kind of like the local bus. My first time walking to the bus stop (which is about a 10/15 minute walk) I had tears that just filled my eyes. There were people sitting next to garbage. So many of my senses were being affected: visual, sound, and smell. I was so glad I had sunglasses on because my eyes were very watery. However, I have gotten used to it now.

Susha mocho This is a view from inside the bus

view from the dala dala

This is the bust stop I get on in the mornings and off in the afternoon. It is called Mocho. In order to get off the bus you say,

“Susha Mocho”

Dala Dala time

This is a picture of us heading to the Dala Dala in the morning. At the hospitals they ask us to change into our scrubs once we get there and change back into our street clothes before we leave to limit the spread of germs.

Typically in the morning you will get a seat. However, in the afternoon after the hospital you have to stand. They cram everyone onto the bus and you literally feel like a can of sardens. I like to look at it like Dala Dala yoga. What pose can you get into? Sometimes I will have a persons face right next to mine or a mans armpit or three children right beside my face.  It costs 400 shillings for each ride. Tanzanian money is very cool. For every 10,000 Tanzanian Shillings it is a little less than $5.00 US dollars

tanzanian shilling

This is my favorite bill because it has an elephant on it.

I have learned a lot of street smarts here. For instance, you should never have your phone in your hand or even be talking on it while you’re on the bus. Someone will just reach into the window and take your phone. Even when at work you want to keep your phone and money on you at all times. Also, you never want to carry around a purse. If you do, then someone will come up behind you and cut off the string and run with it. I’ve also learned how to wash my own clothes by hand!

Washing clothes time This is Heather from Canada!

The last thing I will be talking about is my clinical experience over the last two weeks and a couple of places I have been to on the  weekends when I am not in the hospital. I have been in Ward 36 the NICU (Neonatal Intensive Care Unit) and Ward 33 which is Antepartum and Postpartum. It is very fascinating to see what the babies here have compared to back home. A lot of babies are born with congenital defects as in hydrocephaly and encephaly. The other day I saw twins that were conjoined together because the mother didn’t get enough folic acid at the beginning of her pregnancy. A lot of the Mom’s suffer from pre-eclampsia. Most of the times it is caused from Malaria. All women are supposed to get a prophylaxis during their third trimester whether or not they have malaria just as a precautionary measure. However, not all mother’s get it. In addition, you hardly ever see father’s with the babies. Every three hours the mother’s come and breast feed the babies. It is very different compared to the US. The Mom’s will literally walk into the unit with their tanga’s down (which is a type of fabric they where) and they breasts just hanging out. At first it was a shock. I walked onto the unit and saw 100 + women half naked. And they breast feed right beside one another. During birth the father’s are not allowed to be in the room. It is just the mom and the nurse/midwife/doctor. Also, the Mom’s take full care of the baby. For instance, one day when I was helping weigh the babies I noticed that a diaper was soiled. I asked where a diaper was so I could change it and the nurse looked at me like I was crazy. He said that the mother takes care of it. And that she will be back in a while to do that. Very different compared to the US. If a mother came to the hospital where her baby was and found it in a soiled diaper that would not go over very well. More over,  in the NICU, the babies are so close together. Sometimes there will be 6 babies in one bassinette. Germs and infection is so crucial to be aware of in the NICU. It is very different compared to the US. Also! They have no IV pumps in the hospital! I hung a bag of blood that was being transfused but there was no IV pump to set it up with. You just have to estimate how fast you want it to drip. Moreover, there are quite a bit of orphan babies from their mother’s dying at child birth. The hospital is allowed to keep them for 3 months. During that time they wait for a family member to come and claim them. At first I thought that was CRAZY. Why wouldn’t the Dad come that instant to come and get their baby? However, the Dad has to work and would not be able to take care of the child. If he doesn’t work then the rest of the family will starve. Therefore, sometimes the Dad has to save up money over those three months so they can pay to have the baby taken care of in an orphanage. So, so sad. Lastly, it is very interesting being in a country where it is 1/2  Christian and 1/2 Muslim. Going into work on one side there is a mosque and on the other there is a temple.

Some of my fellow co-workers in Ward 36 NICU

Some of my fellow co-workers in Ward 36 NICU

Overall, I have had good nurses/mentors during my OB/GYN clinical rotation. The next two weeks I will be in Mental Health! I am very interested to see what I will learn there. Although I’ve seen such heartbreaking things with babies dying and seeing people suffering, my eyes have been opened up so much. It makes me so upset when I hear people call people from Africa “poor” or “unfortunate.” The people here are living life to the fullest  and are so rich in culture and tradition. Yes, they may have poverty and tragedy, but the people here are so kind hearted. What happened last week in Tanzania with the nurse inviting me to her home would have never happened back in America. We can learn a lot from the people in Africa. I feel that people back home have heard so many negative things and have a picture painted of what it’s like in Africa, but you simply need to see it with an open heart and mind. People are most scared of the unknown. Which is why I feel people in other parts of the world can become so frightened of places they have never been to.

 

 

Side Adventures:

So breathtaking!

Bongoyo Island! So breathtaking!

Bongoyo boat

 

Getting to go to a Graduate level Midwifery class for the evening after work!

Getting to go to a Graduate level Midwifery class for the evening after work!

Blessing came to visit me at work and we played Doctor!

Blessing came to visit me at work and we played Doctor!

Made a stop at Slip Way to play with crabs and get the best ice cream ever!

Made a stop at Slip Way to play with crabs and get the best ice cream ever!

Sunset Cruise

Sunset Cruise

Fishermen we met on the cruise. They greeted us with dancing and "Mambo!"

Fishermen we met on the cruise. They greeted us with dancing and “Mambo!”

My journey so far

I’ll write again sometime soon!

Heartbreaking Day

Karah Waters
Karah Waters
Tanzania 2017

Today was probably the

hardest day I have ever had with being a nurse.

It all just felt so unreal. I was doing rounds with the nurses and getting report on the babies when we stopped at this one baby who was not breathing. The night nurse simply stated that he had aspirated the milk the mother was feeding him at midnight and the doctors did not tell her anything was wrong. Then at 4AM she continued feeding it and it aspirated more milk. The nurse said he had been like this for a while. They merely poked his chest and just stared at him. I looked at him and could see that he had a heartbeat but no inhalation or exhalation of the lungs. His toes were purple/blue. A nurse was fumbling with the ambu-bag. She was trying to get the air to go in while she was doing compressions. She didn’t have a proper seal on the mouth. I didn’t know I had this in me but all of a sudden I just took control. I grabbed the bag from her and began doing rescue breathing. I told her there was no need to do compressions because the child had a heartbeat. A lot of the times here I try not to enforce my way of doing things which is the way things are done in the US. However, this was a special circumstance. Every second counted. But in Tanzania, there is never an urgency or rush when an emergency is taking place. Everyone is very “hakuna matata” and don’t worry about things. The nurse wanted to suction the baby and do a blood glucose test before giving oxygen. There were no noticeable secretions. Prioritization here is very different. ABC’s are key: airway, breathing, and circulation. I continued doing rescue breathing. Then a doctor walked in and asked if I could show him how to do it.

NO ONE knew how to do CPR.

I was flabbergasted deep down inside. As we were trying to save this babies life I taught 3 people how to do CPR. On top of all of that, the NICU room that we were in has a heater to insulate all of the premature babies. So on top of no AC in the hospital the room was at 38 degrees C which is 100.4 in F.

As we continued doing rescue breathing then all of the mothers came in for breast feeding. In addition to having 20 babies in the room we now had 20 moms and 8 healthcare personnel. The room is not that big. The mothers just watched as we were trying to save the babies life. In my head I knew the baby needed to be intubated and hooked up to a ventilator if he was going to make it. With him already having enough lack of oxygen to turn his toes blue he was bound to have had brain damage which wasn’t allowing him to breath on his own. The doctor’s explained to me that they only had two ventilators and they were both being used and it would be about a month before we would be able to get one for the baby. I asked if there was anyway to get one from another hospital. But there was not any way. My heart broke into a thousand pieces. As I was bagging the doctors were giving the baby adrenaline to help the heart continue perfusing all of the blood and they hooked him up to normal saline. They also gave him 3 boluses of dextrose. Some of the things they did I questioned but they were doing all that they could. One of the doctors asked me when I could stop bagging. She wanted to just hook the baby up to a nasal prong and give him oxygen that way. I explained that since he is not using his lungs that oxygen wouldn’t work. We are being his lungs by doing rescue breathing and forcing the air in which the nasal prongs would not do. Another nurse was too scared to try and do the respirations for the baby. It was very frustrating and sad to me. If this baby was in the US they would make it. As soon as they had told me there was no ventilator I knew in the back of my head this baby was going to die. Throughout this whole process I kept seeing red ants crawl on the baby. I was confused as to where they were coming from. I pulled back the babies diaper and they had bitten him so much that he was bleeding around his private area. I looked down beside my scrubs that were pushed up against the table that I was leaning on to give him the rescue breaths and there was a cockroach the size of my pinky toe.

This was the first time in my life where I was the one in the hospital who knew what to do. There was no one else I could turn to higher up to help me or have a solution to the problem. It was a scary thought. I just kept doing what I had been taught in nursing school. In the back of mind I was just so thankful to have such amazing professor’s who taught me all that I knew in that moment. After 3 hours of rescue breathing for the baby I knew I had to be ethical and use my critical decision making. I was only prolonging the baby to live. As soon as I stopped breathing for the baby I knew he would die. There was no way I could do this continually for days. However, I didn’t want to stop until the mother came back.

It is custom here to let the baby die and then tell the mom after it has already happened. They feel that it is too painful and causes more suffering whenever the mother has to watch the baby die. However, I just couldn’t settle with that. I wanted the precious baby to be in his mother’s arms during his last few moments on Earth. None of the doctors or nurses would tell the mother for me that the baby was dying. It made me so sad that I couldn’t communicate with her in Swahili to let her know everything that was happening. I simply walked her to the baby and was able to get her to understand the heart was working but not the lungs. I placed her finger in the babies hand and patted her on the back. As I shut the door behind me I tried my best to keep the tears inside of me. I walked down the long corridor to get to the stairwell. As soon as I was out of sight from everyone the tears just poured. I was so overwhelmed and heartbroken. It was around noon at this point and I really wanted to just go home. But I forced myself to carry on with the day. After this situation, it only went down hill. I found two other babies that had a heartbeat but were not breathing. I also did rescue breathing for them. One of the babies pupils were fixed and the oxygen sat was 44%.

All three babies died today. I left work with my head held down as the sun shined on my back. I know the babies are no longer in pain now but I just had a really hard time with accepting how it all happened. In the US it would have never gotten to that point. We have the NICU babies hooked up to machines that constantly take their vital signs. They don’t have anything like that here that would alert them to a babies V/S dropping. There is also 1 nurse to 35 babies here whereas in a NICU at home it is more like 2 or 4 babies to 1 nurse. Today was just a very heartbreaking day.

Le Business au Sénégal

Sean Grossnickle
Sean Grossnickle
Senegal 2017

Par rapport aux paies de l’Occident, rien ici n’est efficace. Aucune boutique n’accepte les cartes sauf qu’à Dakar, il faut toujours garder de l’argent liquide. Cela a des conséquences. Il est impossible d’avoir une taxe de vente alors il y a moins de revenu pour le gouvernement. Et parce que personne n’a pas un compte bancaire, chaque personne est payée avec l’argent liquide aussi, donc encore il est impossible d’avoir un impôt sur le revenu. Je n’ai pas envie du gouvernement. De plus, il y a un impôt foncier mais c’est seulement pour les maisons finies. La conséquence ? Beaucoup de maisons qui ne sont pas finies.

Il est vrai que le gouvernement a besoin de revenu pour faire l’administration, mais c’est en supposant que le gouvernement n’est pas corrompu. Mais ici il est corrompu et tout le monde le sais. Malheureusement/heureusement il n’y a pas toujours des manifestations comme au Venezuela. Les gens acceptent la corruption et espèrent toujours que la vie va s’améliorer. Je n’ai trouvé qu’une personne qui aime le président. Ma mère d’accueil et mon guide pour mes excursions m’ont dit que la richesse nationale c’est aux gens qui ont le pouvoir, jamais pour les pauvres. Et sans taxes, il n’y a pas d’amélioration pour la condition de vie des misérables via l’administration. Avec tout ça, le changement est-il possible ? Je ne sais pas, mais j’espère.20170715_175723

Comment est-ce qu’il est possible de faire le business au Sénégal ? Je pense à ça toujours, notamment pour les compagnies américaines. Les risques de business sont forts. Les traces des business sénégalaises (sauf que ceux qui sont très grands) n’existent pas vraiment. Je pense qu’il sera très difficile d’imposer un contrat s’ils ne respectent pas les termes. J’ai aussi vu beaucoup de cas de discrimination entre les propriétaires et clients. Si un propriétaire ne vous aime pas, il mentit sur tout ou il peut changer son avis sans prévenir et le jour avant votre départ vous êtes sans un mode de transport.

Pour les consommateurs, je ne sais pas comment je peux présenter un nouveau produit dans le marché pour une chose alimentaire. Chaque jour tout le monde achète la même chose (vraiment toujours, personne n’a un frigo) et la fidélité à la marque est très forte. Mais comme tout le monde, si un produit est moins cher et en haute qualité, cela peut changer la situation, mais les marges ici pour les produits alimentaires sont presque rien. Vraiment c’est quelques centimes. Je ne vois pas la valeur pour une compagnie qui veut essayer d’entrer dans ce marché. Cette une histoire différente pour les articles de luxe comme un IPhone ou Land Rover. Il y a quelques milles de clients pour les deux au Sénégal, et il y aurait de plus si tout le monde a l’accès au crédit. Le marché n’est pas le plus grand mais assez grand pour entrer.

Samedi il y avait un match de foot à Dakar pour le championnat et bien sûr le stade était plein. Mon boss Cheikh y a assisté. Pendant la prolongation, l’autre équipe (l’équipe qui ne vient pas de Dakar) a fait un but. Ensuite il y avait une catastrophe. Les supporteurs de Dakar attaquent les supporteurs de l’autre équipe. 10 personnes sont mortes et plus de 130 ont été blessés. Tout était annulé après ça, même le concert qui allait se passer à Saint Louis. Il est fou que ça s’est passé mais quand même rien ne me surprend.20170715_185402

Dans une semaine je vais partir de Saint Louis à Ziguinchor, une ville dans le sud de Sénégal, après la Gambie. Je vais rester là-bas avec des missionnaires pour une semaine et ensuite une autre semaine à Dakar avec les missionnaires différents. Je serais un peu plus enthousiaste pour le voyage si les modes de transport ici étaient sûrs, mais malheureusement je dois attendre le jour de départ pour chercher mon billet. On verra si je dois passer deux semaines à Dakar.

 

In comparison with countries in the West, nothing here is efficient. No stores accept credit cards except in Dakar, you always need to have cash on you. This has quite a few consequences. It’s impossible to have a sales tax and that hinders the governments revenue, and because nobody has a bank account, they get paid in cash, so it’s also logistically impossible to have an income tax. I do not envy the government. In addition, there are property taxes but only for finished houses. The result? There are a lot of houses that are not finished.

It’s true that the government needs revenue to finance public works, but that is assuming the government is not corrupt and will put the money to good use. But here the government is corrupt and everyone admits it. Unfortunately/fortunately (depending on your political point of view) there are not protests everyday like in Venezuela. The people accept the corruption and hope that life will get better. I have only found one person who admits to liking the president. My host mother and my guide for the excursions told me that all the national wealth goes to the people with power, never to the poor. And without taxes, it’s not feasible to improve the lives of those not so well-off through public services. With all this, is change possible? I do not know, but I hope so.20170715_172318

How is it possible to do business in Senegal? I think about this every day, notably for American companies. There are a lot of risks doing business here. The records of Senegalese businesses (except the ones that are very large) don’t really exist. I think that is would be very difficult to enforce a contract if someone does not respect the terms of agreement. I have also seen many cases of discrimination between owners and clients. If an owner does not like you, he lies about everything, or he can change his opinion without warning and the day before you leave you can be without a mode of transportation.

As for the consumers, I don’t know how I can introduce a new product to the market for something people need daily. Every day, every one buys the same thing (truly every day because no one has a fridge here) and brand loyalty is quite strong. But as with everyone, if a product is less expensive but higher quality that could change the situation, but the margins here are almost nothing. Pennies, at best. I do not see the benefit for a company trying to enter this market. There is a different story for luxury items such as IPhones or Land Rovers. There are several thousand customers for those products in Senegal, and there would be more if people had access to credit. The market is not the biggest but big enough to be worth entering.

Combien de baguettes est-ce que je peux mettre dans la voiture?/How many baguettes can I put in the car?

Combien de baguettes est-ce que je peux mettre dans la voiture?/How many baguettes can I put in the car?

Last Saturday, there was a soccer match in Dakar for the league championship and of course the stadium was packed. My boss Cheikh was there. During overtime, the other team (the team not from Dakar) made a goal. After that it was a nightmare. Dakar’s fans attacked the fans of the other team. 10 people died and over 130 were wounded. Everything was cancelled after that, even the concert in Saint Louis that evening. It is kind of ridiculous that happened, but it does not surprise me.

In one week, I will be leaving Saint Louis for Ziguinchor, a town in the south of Senegal, past Gambia. I am going to stay with some missionaries there for one week and then another week in Dakar with different missionaries. I would be a little more excited for the trip if the way I was getting there was sure, but unfortunately, I have to wait until the day I leave to get my boat ticket. We will see if I have to spend two weeks in Dakar.

A walk around town with the walking clubs of Saint Louis

A walk around town with the walking clubs of Saint Louis

La teinture/Dying clothes

La teinture/Dying clothes

20170715_170546

Le journal quotidien/The Daily Journal #11

Sean Grossnickle
Sean Grossnickle
Senegal 2017

Jour 67 – Ce matin j’ai vu le plan de business pour Seynabou Dieye que le couple canadien a fait. Après, nous avons visité les boutiques et un tailleur pour vérifier les prix du plan de business. Nous avons travaillé sur les rapports hebdomadaires l’après-midi. J’ai préparé mon blogue. J’ai acheté une statute du même vendeur comme les autres, je suis gaga des bons prix. Les volontaires ont bu à Flamingo pour le rendez-vous hebdomadaire. J’ai rencontré presque tous les autres là-bas. Je suis frustré avec ma mère d’accueil parce qu’elle fait comme elle veut et fais les excuses pour tout. Aujourd’hui elle « croyait » que j’allais manger en ville, mais je ne dis rien de ça. Chaque fois je demande à quelle heure on va manger, elle dit « je sais pas ». Et chaque fois je reviens pour le souper, elle a déjà mangé plutôt que toutes les autres nuits, et c’est seulement ces nuits-ci qu’elle mange tôt.

Jour 68 – J’avais la flemme ce matin et n’ai presque fait rien. Il est très difficile d’attendre le repas à 14h 30 parce que ça c’est la moitié de l’après-midi. J’ai appelé Bre pour discuter sur le spectacle. Le site web de l’Institut français a dit qu’il y aurait un film dans la salle de cinéma aujourd’hui. Mais, malheureusement, comme d’habitude, c’était incorrecte (c’était le weekend dernier). J’ai exploré l’ile sud aujourd’hui pour la première fois. J’ai vu un forum où le propriétaire de la maison invite les gens pour trouver des solutions et des investissements pour la ville de Saint Louis. Je suis allé à l’église en ville.

Jour 69 – J’ai regardé deux films : «’Til the Clouds Roll By » de la vie de Jerome Kern, et Silence, une histoire des missionnaires qui sont allés au Japon. Claire est partie aujourd’hui à 14h. J’ai eu l’idée à marcher à l’Hôtel Hydrobase au fond de la deuxième île. Selon ma carte (que Habib a fait pour moi), ce n’était pas très loin…j’ai marché pour 2 heures, probablement 5 à 10 km. Mais maintenant je peux dire que j’ai vraiment vu toute la ville de Saint Louis. J’ai appelé mes parents.

Jour 70 – Nous avons préparé le cours pour les femmes. Nous sommes allés voir Moctar pour donner 3 prêts (Ibrahima, Mamadou et Mor). J’ai appris qu’il est possible de changer l’âge d’une personne au Sénégal. Officiellement Mamadou est mineur (il est né en 1995 mais son certificat de naissance dit 1999) et nous n’avons presque pas donné le prêt. Il y avait un autre problème. Mor a dit (après il a signé tous les documents) qu’il va vendre ses produits à un prix différent qu’il nous a dit plutôt. Il était frustrant. J’ai fait des choses diverses pendant l’après-midi. On a visité les sites potentiels pour le kiosk de Aliou, le meilleur était très proche du centre de talibés. J’ai eu 4 heures d’appels quand je suis retourné chez moi.

Jour 71 – Ce matin nous avons fait la recherche de marché pour le nouveau plan de business de Moustapha. Il n’est pas très rentable et on ne peut pas lui donner un prêt avec ce plan. J’ai fini le plan pour Daba Diop, je pense qu’on va présenter tous les bénéficiaires potentiels à Moctar jeudi. J’ai « acheté » mon billet pour le bateau (je suis le premier sur la liste d’attente) et je suis en train de faire mes projets finals à Saint Louis. J’ai appelé Quinn pour discuter sur le spectacle. Il n’y a pas de l’eau.

Jour 72 – Ce matin nous avons presque révisé toutes les présentations pour Moctar qu’on va présenter demain et mardi. Pendant la pause déjeuner, le nouveau garçon est arrivé chez moi. Il s’appelle Victorio et il est italien. Après la pause nous avons visité Oumou, la femme de Bango qui a une situation très grave. J’ai mangé chez Cheikh et nous avons vu l’émission Fort Boyard. Il est difficile de partager un ventilateur, j’ai mal dormi. Je vais acheter un autre demain et une multiprise, inch’Allah.

Jour 73 – Ce matin on a fait beaucoup de changements pour le plan de business de Daba Diop. Elle nous a donné les faux numéros la dernière fois, elle est venue pour les corriger. Nous avons mangé maffé ensemble. L’après-midi j’ai attend mes étudiantes au bureau mais personne n’est venue. Nous avons acheté un nouveau ventilateur au marché (c’était une bonne idée). Nous avons mangé de la glace pour la dernière nuit de Jonas.

 

Day 67 – This morning I reviewed the business plan for Seynabou Dieye that the Canadian couple made. Afterwards, we visited some shops and a tailor to verify prices in the business plan. We worked on the weekly reports in the afternoon. I prepared my blog. I bought a new statue from the same seller as the others, I am a sucker for a good price. The volunteers had drinks at Flamingo for the weekly get-together. I met almost all the other people there. I was very frustrated with my host mom because she makes excuses for everything. Today she thought that I was eating in town when I told her nothing of the sort. Every time I ask what time we are going to eat, she says “I don’t know”. And every night I come back for supper, she always eats earlier than the other nights (as a result I either don’t get food or only porridge).

Day 68 – I was very lazy this morning and did almost nothing. It is quite hard to wait for a meal until 2:30 because it’s right in the middle of the afternoon. I called Bre to discuss the show. The website for the French institute said that there would be a film today, but unfortunately, like usual, it was wrong (it was last weekend). I explored the southern part of the island for the first time today. I saw a forum where the owner invites people to come and discuss solutions to problems and potential investments for the town of Saint Louis. I went to church in town.

Day 69 – I watch two movies: ‘Til the Clouds Roll By about the life of Jerome Kern and Silence, a history of the missionaries in Japan. Claire left today at 2pm. I had the idea to walk to the Hydrobase Hotel at the end of the second island. According to the map (that Habib gave me) it was not very far…I walked for 2 hours, probably 3 or 4 miles. But now I have truly seen the entire town of Saint Louis. I called my parents.

Day 70 – We prepared the course for the women. We went to see Moctar to give three loans (Ibrahima, Mamadou and Mor). I learned that it is possible to change someone’s age in Senegal. Officially, Mamadou is a minor (he was born in 1995 but his birth certificate says 1999) and we almost couldn’t give him the loan. There was another problem. Mor said (after he signed all the documents) that he is going to see his products at a different price than he said earlier. It was frustrating. I did miscellaneous things during the afternoon. We visited potential sites for Aliou’s kiosk, the best was next to our Talibé care center. I had 4 hours of calls when I got back home.

Day 71 – This morning we did market research for Moustapha’s new business. It is not very profitable and we cannot give him a loan with this plan. I finished the plan for Daba Diop, I think that we will present all of the new potentials Thursday to Moctar. I “bought” my ticket for the boat (I am first on the waiting list) and I am in the process of making my final plans for Saint Louis. I called Quinn to discuss the show. There is no water today.

Day 72 – We revised almost all the presentations for Moctar that we will present tomorrow or Tuesday. During the lunch break, the new guy arrived at my house. His name is Vittorio and he is Italian. After the break we went to Oumou’s house, the women from Bango with a terrible living situation. I ate at Cheikh’s house and we watched the show Fort Boyard. It is hard to share a fan, I did not sleep well. I am going to buy another one tomorrow and a power strip.

Day 73 – This morning we made a lot of changes to the business plan for Daba Diop. She gave us wrong numbers the last time, she came to correct them. We all ate maffé together. In the afternoon I waited for my students at the office but nobody came. We bought a new fan at the market (it was a very good idea). We had some ice cream for Jonas’ last night.

Vers la Fin/Towards the End

Sean Grossnickle
Sean Grossnickle
Senegal 2017

Le temps passe si vite, je reste ici pour seulement un mois de plus. Il est bizarre parce que le travail me semble très différent maintenant. Nous avons eu beaucoup de bénéficiaires qui ont déjà fini la formation au bureau. Ça reste seulement leurs plans de business et présentations. Mais il est super parce que nous donnons des nouveaux prêts chaque semaine. Malheureusement, le modèle de microfinance ici n’est pas suffisant. Nous dépendons sur les volontaires et leur argent pour financer notre projet. Je ne sais pas si nous aurons assez d’argent pour les 10 femmes qui vont commencer les cours jeudi. Nous cherchons les chemins pour recevoir les dons, comme l’octroi de l’union européenne que le bureau va essayer de gagner.  Nous faisons les bonnes œuvres ici et ça me rendrait triste si nous devenions dire non à une personne qui n’a pas les moyens pour nourrir sa famille.

De la poisson, de la mangue et du riz/Fish, mango and rice

De la poisson, de la mangue et du riz/Fish, mango and rice

Sinon, il était difficile pour moi de m’adapter à la nouvelle mode de vie pour les volontaires. La majorité reste ici pour seulement 3 ou 4 semaines et ils traitent le séjour comme des vacances. Ils n’ont pas besoin d’apprendre le mode de vie parce qu’ils ne restent pas ici pour assez de temps. J’ai pris presque 8 semaines pour être à l’aise avec tout ; je connais bien comment prendre un taxi, négocier un prix, saluer quelqu’un, habiter avec ma famille d’accueil, trouver un bon resto ou même bien me reposer. Quand je suis arrivé, tout le monde allait rester ici pour longtemps, et nous avons posé beaucoup de questions sur le mode de vie ici, les questions qui n’existent plus, celles les plus importantes que je pense les nouveaux volontaires ne sauront jamais. Je me sens un peu responsable pour leurs bien-être comme le plus ancien volontaire et ça me rend triste qu’ils font la plupart de choses tout seul. Mais s’ils m’ont besoin, je suis ici.

Après on reste ici pour longtemps, on entend beaucoup d’histoire très tristes. Maintenant, la plupart de femmes sont veuves qui n’ont pas les moyens pour soutenir leurs familles. Normalement leur grande famille les aide ou même leurs enfants s’ils sont assez grand pour travailler, mais leurs conditions de vie sont les pires. Si un de leur famille (comme la fille d’une bénéficiaire que j’ai rencontré hier) tombe malade, elles peuvent presque ne rien faire. Il y a des maisons où tout le monde dort par terre chaque nuit parce qu’il n’y a pas assez de place sur les matelas. J’ai vu aussi les maisons sans toilettes et le sol est la terre. San parler des cuisines qui sont les places parfois les plus sales dans la maison. Vous auriez un mouvement de recul si vous voyiez les maisons ici.

Je pense souvent à comment améliorer les conditions de vie ici sur un niveau gouvernemental. Il n’est ni bon pour les talibés ni les daaras parce que l’Etat ne veulent pas toucher aux daaras. C’est un problème parce que tout le monde soutient le système des écoles coraniques mais personne ne veut les enregistrer avec l’Etat pour recevoir un subventionnement. Il y a quelques écoles franco-arabes, ça veut dire les daaras qui enseigner au même temps le coran et les études normales. Mais on les trouve rarement. Environ 1-2% de la population de Sénégal est un talibé et il y en a plus de 1 000 à Saint Louis. Ces gens-ci ont besoin d’une éducation pour contribuer au bien-être du pays.

J’espère que je ne radote pas. Une petite histoire : quand j’étais au Québec et faisais le programme d’immersion, je n’ai pas remarqué vraiment l’accent canadien. Maintenant, après avoir entendu beaucoup d’autres accents, je trouve que l’accent canadien est gros. Je le trouve intéressant que je remarque ça maintenant.

Ba beneen yoon « A la prochaine » !

 

Time is passing very fast, I am here for only a month longer. It’s been weird as work is quite different now. We have had a lot of beneficiaries who have already finished the training at the office. All that is left is their business plans and presentations to Moctar. But it’s cool because we get to give new loans out about every week. Unfortunately, the microfinance model here is not self-sufficient. We depend on volunteers and their money to fund our project. I do not know if there will be enough money for the 10 new women who are going to start classes this Thursday. We are looking for ways to get funding, such as the grant from the European Union that the office is trying to get. We are doing really good work here and it would make me sad if we had to say no to a person who doesn’t have the resources to feed their family.

On another note, it is hard for me to get used to the new way of life for the volunteers. The majority are only staying for 3 or 4 weeks and they treat this trip like a vacation. They don’t need to learn the way of life here because they are not staying for longer enough to make it necessary. It took me 8 weeks to get used to everything: I know how to take a taxi, negotiate a price, greet somebody, live with my host family, find a good restaurant or even how to find a way to relax here. When I arrived, everyone was going to be here for a long time, and we asked a lot of questions about the way of life here, the questions which seem to no longer exist. The most important questions I do not think the volunteers will ever ask. I feel somewhat responsible for their well-being since I am the most experienced volunteer here and it makes me sad that they want to do most things by themselves. But if they need me, I am here.

Pardonnez le visage d'Amina mais ici les volontaires font le soin au daara/Excuse Amina's face but here the volunteers are disinfecting sores of the children in the daara

Pardonnez le visage d’Amina mais ici les volontaires font le soin au daara/Excuse Amina’s face but here the volunteers are disinfecting sores of the children in the daara

After being here for a long time, one hears a lot of very sad stories. Right now, most of the women are widows and do not have the resources to support their families. Normally their extended family helps them or ever their children if they are old enough to work, but their living conditions are the worst. If one of their family (like the daughter of a beneficiary I met yesterday) gets sick, they can do almost nothing to help them. There are houses where everyone sleeps on the ground because there is not enough space on the mattresses. I have also seen houses without bathrooms and where the floor is dirt. That’s without mentioning the kitchens that are many times the dirtiest rooms in the house. You would cringe if you saw the houses here.

I often wonder how we can better the living conditions here on a governmental level. It’s not good for the talibés nor the daaras that the State does not want to mess with them. It is a problem because everyone supports the system of Koranic schools but nobody wants to register them with the State to receiving funding. There are several French-Arabic schools, which are schools are teach both the Qur’an and regular studies, but those are few and far in between. Around 1-2% of the Senegalese population is a talibé and there are more than 1,000 in Saint Louis. These people need an education so they can contribute to the well-being of their country.

I hope that I am not rambling. A quick story: when I was in Quebec and doing the immersion program, I did not really notice the Canadian accent. Now, having heard a lot of other accents, I find the French-Canadian accent very thick. I just find it interesting that I am noticing it now!

Ba beneen yoon (until next time)!

Elle voudrais payer ses études (ici on peut le faire avec $80 par mois)/She would like to pay for her college (here you can do that with $80 a month)

Elle voudrais payer ses études (ici on peut le faire avec $80 par mois)/She would like to pay for her college (here you can do that with $80 a month)

Ibrahima a un rêve d’une place dans le marché/Ibrahima dreams of having a store in the market

Ibrahima a un rêve d’une place dans le marché/Ibrahima dreams of having a store in the market

Mor veut vendre des friperies dans les quartiers de Saint Louis/Mor wants to sell used clothing in the neighborhoods of Saint Louis

Mor veut vendre des friperies dans les quartiers de Saint Louis/Mor wants to sell used clothing in the neighborhoods of Saint Louis

Les billets de la Banque Centrale des Etats de l'Afrique de l'Ouest (BCEAO)/The bills from the Central Bank of the Western African States

Les billets de la Banque Centrale des Etats de l’Afrique de l’Ouest (BCEAO)/The bills from the Central Bank of the Western African States