Hermanus Whale Festival

Friday 23 September-Sunday 25 September

This weekend Harriet, Rodrigo and I went to Hermanus for the annual whale festival. I actually went to the festival two years ago when I was here previously. The weather was pretty bad last time I went. I remember it was cold and rainy. But Friday when we went the weather was beautiful, sunny without a cloud in the sky. We rented a car and because of a mistake with the car company (their fault not mine) we got upgraded to a huge Toyota SUV. This thing was a monster and I was pretty nervous about driving it. That and the fact that they drive on the left hand side here made me a bit anxious. But it didn’t take long to get used to it and the fact that I was so nervous made me extra careful probably more so than I would have been usually.

We left Gordon’s Bay at about 4 after I went and picked up the car and since we were in no rush, we stopped at the dam in Gordon’s Bay. It’s located on the mountains that overlook our fair city and both Harriet and Rodrigo had never been. There is an absolute beautiful view from up there and I really just wanted to show them that and drive up the super windy road that takes you up there. We took a few pictures before heading back down and embarking on our journey to Hermanus. Hermanus is located about an hour and half away from Gordon’s Bay and we took the long way so we could get a chance to drive along the coast. The drive was beautiful, lots of curves which was kind of scary but overall it was very enjoyable. We even saw a whale on a way there so I had to pull over just so we could get a glimpse of this great giant of the sea. It was awesome.

Finding our way to the backpackers took some doing but we finally arrived at our destination: Hermanus Backpackers. It was a very nice backpackers and the price included breakfast which you know I loved. We relaxed for a bit before going to see where the action was and finding our way to the main part of Hermanus. We met up with some other volunteers who were just coming for the night and had dinner. I can’t remember the name of the place but I know the food was good.

After dinner, we went to a concert. Mel had highly recommended a band called Prime Circle so we went to check it out. The opening band was a group called D7 and they were so good. I loved them. They were this a capella group and they were fabulous. I took a video of them because I loved them so much. They beat boxed, sang and even busted a couple moves. Prime Circle however was not my cup of tea. They reminded me of Nickelback and those kinds of groups from the 90s. It was honestly torture and I felt really bad because we spent R130 to get into this concert and didn’t want to waste it by leaving. So we sat in the tables at the back, talking and mostly trying to drown out the music. Horrible, I know but they just weren’t my style. Eventually we did decide to call it quits and walked back in the dark to our nice comfy beds.

Saturday bought bad weather. Not rainy but cloudy and not very warm. We had breakfast which consisted of toast, porridge and tea/coffee. Not exactly a five star meal but I ate because of course I had already paid for it. We spent the morning watching a rugby game England v…..I can’t remember. I was with a bunch of Brits so I just remember cheering for England. I think it was Scotland or maybe Ireland, one of the those countries. Anyways, we spent most of the day wondering around the different shops and stalls, looking for souvenirs. Oh and then there was the car situation. So as I stated earlier the car company messed up on their end by not getting me the right car. So the plan was to exchange the SUV for the car I had booked at 11 but the car company called me and said that because of the festival the car would be late. I spent most of the day trying to call them to figure out when the car got there with no luck. Turns out the car company closed at 1, something you think they would mention in the voicemail they left me. It was very annoying especially after I learned on Sunday about them closing at 1.

But no worries, we still had a great time. We walked back to the backpackers and chilled there for a while playing cards and pool, having a good time. Then Sunday we had to exchange the car which was a hassle of course so really we only ended up exchanging the car having lunch and then driving back since I had to return the car in Strand. It was fine though. It was a great weekend.

Hermanus Whale Festival

Friday 23 September-Sunday 25 September

This weekend Harriet, Rodrigo and I went to Hermanus for the annual whale festival. I actually went to the festival two years ago when I was here previously. The weather was pretty bad last time I went. I remember it was cold and rainy. But Friday when we went the weather was beautiful, sunny without a cloud in the sky. We rented a car and because of a mistake with the car company (their fault not mine) we got upgraded to a huge Toyota SUV. This thing was a monster and I was pretty nervous about driving it. That and the fact that they drive on the left hand side here made me a bit anxious. But it didn’t take long to get used to it and the fact that I was so nervous made me extra careful probably more so than I would have been usually.

We left Gordon’s Bay at about 4 after I went and picked up the car and since we were in no rush, we stopped at the dam in Gordon’s Bay. It’s located on the mountains that overlook our fair city and both Harriet and Rodrigo had never been. There is an absolute beautiful view from up there and I really just wanted to show them that and drive up the super windy road that takes you up there. We took a few pictures before heading back down and embarking on our journey to Hermanus. Hermanus is located about an hour and half away from Gordon’s Bay and we took the long way so we could get a chance to drive along the coast. The drive was beautiful, lots of curves which was kind of scary but overall it was very enjoyable. We even saw a whale on a way there so I had to pull over just so we could get a glimpse of this great giant of the sea. It was awesome.

Finding our way to the backpackers took some doing but we finally arrived at our destination: Hermanus Backpackers. It was a very nice backpackers and the price included breakfast which you know I loved. We relaxed for a bit before going to see where the action was and finding our way to the main part of Hermanus. We met up with some other volunteers who were just coming for the night and had dinner. I can’t remember the name of the place but I know the food was good.

After dinner, we went to a concert. Mel had highly recommended a band called Prime Circle so we went to check it out. The opening band was a group called D7 and they were so good. I loved them. They were this a capella group and they were fabulous. I took a video of them because I loved them so much. They beat boxed, sang and even busted a couple moves. Prime Circle however was not my cup of tea. They reminded me of Nickelback and those kinds of groups from the 90s. It was honestly torture and I felt really bad because we spent R130 to get into this concert and didn’t want to waste it by leaving. So we sat in the tables at the back, talking and mostly trying to drown out the music. Horrible, I know but they just weren’t my style. Eventually we did decide to call it quits and walked back in the dark to our nice comfy beds.

Saturday bought bad weather. Not rainy but cloudy and not very warm. We had breakfast which consisted of toast, porridge and tea/coffee. Not exactly a five star meal but I ate because of course I had already paid for it. We spent the morning watching a rugby game England v…..I can’t remember. I was with a bunch of Brits so I just remember cheering for England. I think it was Scotland or maybe Ireland, one of the those countries. Anyways, we spent most of the day wondering around the different shops and stalls, looking for souvenirs. Oh and then there was the car situation. So as I stated earlier the car company messed up on their end by not getting me the right car. So the plan was to exchange the SUV for the car I had booked at 11 but the car company called me and said that because of the festival the car would be late. I spent most of the day trying to call them to figure out when the car got there with no luck. Turns out the car company closed at 1, something you think they would mention in the voicemail they left me. It was very annoying especially after I learned on Sunday about them closing at 1.

But no worries, we still had a great time. We walked back to the backpackers and chilled there for a while playing cards and pool, having a good time. Then Sunday we had to exchange the car which was a hassle of course so really we only ended up exchanging the car having lunch and then driving back since I had to return the car in Strand. It was fine though. It was a great weekend.

Lovely Non-Humanoids

Should a circumstance arise when Giselle and Graham must leave the farm for a day or longer, I have the pleasure of caring for and spending quality time with the Marama animals (excluding the sheep and cattle in the paddocks, of course), which are all lovely non-humanoids. This means

Missy (house cow)

Mick (Missy’s calf)

Spot (female lamb in middle)

Sherlock (male lamb, whom I named)

Watson (youngest male lamb, whom I also named)

Rose (herding dog)

Kuna (Rose’s puppy)

Hatch (huntaway dog)

Ted (Graham’s mate)

Bentley (rooster) and his Ladies (hens; there are actually 16 now)

Clyde (female house cat)

Tiger (Clyde’s kitten)

Wizard (male house cat)

and I rehearse our harmony together; and boy, our songs are long because of the schedule they require. This is how they are composed (original instructions from Giselle):

8 am – 1. Feed lambs; take their bedding out of their drum to hang out to dry on fence; check they have water.
2. Milk Missy; fill her water bucket up.
3. Let dogs out; put Kuna & Rose together with their chains, then onto dog lead which is hanging on kennel; fill up their water bowls (nearest door); use small shovel hanging up beside water tap to clean out any mess the dogs have made.
4. Fill cat bowls once inside.
5. Then walk all the dogs to the top of the hill (airstrip)! If hot weather, on the way back, there is a round water trough on the left hand side on flat piece of road near the horses; let them all drink and swim if they want to! Walk for an hour; they need it! Once back, tie the dogs up under the large tree if dry or in garage if wet; give them a bone or pig’s ear to chew on; Kuna can have milk or eggs or something! Make sure they can access water to drink and let off every two hours for break/toilet.

Have a cold drink, cup of coffee, play with the lambs!

Lunchtime – say 1:00 pm? 1. Let chickens out; put some food scraps into their netted outdoor area; collect eggs for house.
2. Collect our mail & newspapers from the letterbox; feel free to read the newspapers!
3. Take dogs for a wander but away from Missy!
4. Feed lambs their mid-day meal. 🙂

Around 4:00 pm – Take dogs for another long walk.

Around 5:00 pm – Milk Missy.

Around 7:00 pm – 1. Put chickens to bed!
2. Put dogs into their kennels with fresh water, some dog roll [say 3-4 inches wide] and biscuits [4-6 each]; take care to keep well away from Missy!
3. Ted gets fed once they are all done; he can have some milk, meat scraps or egg and some dog biscuits from jar in pantry (looks like dog food).
4. Feed lambs last time.
5. Fill cat bowls for night.

Needless to say, there may not be other people staying in my cottage at the moment, but I am definitely not alone or hardly ever catch a stroke of boredom. The animals keep me on my toes!

Some even come to visit.

 

“Our task must be to free ourselves... by widening our circle of compassion to embrace all living creatures and the whole of nature and its beauty.”  ~Albert Einstein

Rural Living, for now

It is the end of the week here in Chandelao. I have been in the village for about four days and have gone to Jodhpur for the weekend to have hindi lessons and see the other interns. This week has been my first week here in India, and it has not been an easy transition. First, when I arrived, I was constantly passed around to people in FSD and not given orientation very well. Every night I was staying in a different place and not knowing what was going on. Once I arrived in the village, it was nice to be able to get settled in my room and have somewhere to leave my things. The room is nice. I am staying at a hotel in the village that is an old fort from the 1740’s. It is an amazing place to be living since it is so historical. I get three meals a day and it is extremely quiet and quite lonely. There are really only two people who speak english there, the hotel owner and the manager of the women’s center. Radhika, the manager, will only be there for one more week and then she is moving away and will no longer work there which will leave me to work as the manager there. I don’t speak the language and don’t know anything yet so this is not sitting well with me. I thought I would be doing development with the rural women, and the center is already running and I am not sure what the point of me being there is just yet, except run the center that I know nothing about.

Other than that, there is a ton of wildlife in the area, including a monkey that keeps running around the hotel grounds. There are two pet dogs at the hotel, Hazel and Kitty, which are nice to have around. The tourists come to the hotel and stay for a few days at a time and will at least give me some people to talk with. This week there were two Swedish people who came to check up the solar project that they are funding, which has yet to be started since the solar system has not reached the village and only 2 women have been trained. There were also two Australians who got to the village last night and will be there a few days. It is quite interesting to have conversations about the difference in cultures of India, America, and the other countries that are home to the tourists.

The isolation of the village will not give me very fun details to report on on a daily basis, but hopefully I can figure out something to work on. The pictures are of the hotel and crafts center where the women make traditional handicrafts from the Indian state of Rajasthan by hand.

New Boots, New Mind, New Everything

Jet lag took the best out of me and woke my body after the noon hours had begun. Graham, Giselle and I drove through the dark from Dunedin to Waipahi the previous night, so I had no clue what to expect once the bedroom curtains were pulled.

The sun kissed green paddocks where sheep and cattle grazed. Trees danced with the wind. Dogs barked. Engines of four-wheelers and tractors roared. Human voices and clinging pots and pans filled the hollow space of the stairwell. Commotion was all around, yet they managed to be equally congruent and cordial. To give you an idea of the scenery I’ve described, please enjoy the following views.

Photo: Marama’s airstrip, looking southeast

Photo: Marama’s airstrip, looking east

You’d suppose I wouldn’t have been as eager as I was since I come from a state with a long agricultural history, but to sugarcoat the level of my enthusiasm would certainly be deceitful. This was a real, honest to god working farm, right before my own eyes. And because I had zero previous experience, I needed a new pair of boots, a new mind, a new everything, really.

Though instead of getting right to the labor, Giselle and I took things slowly. I was fitted into a warm jacket and hat to wear. Giselle then showed me the property, explained what had to be done on a daily basis and introduced me to all the animals, among others. When we came to one of their big, black and white house cows, Missy had created a spot under a tree and continued circulating until a perfect boundary of dirt formed beneath her hooves. It was explained to me that she was pregnant and as a part of the process, she had specifically chosen this area for the delivery. Her calf was due at any second.

I’d never witnessed the birth of anything before, so I approached the happening with caution. Stories of women having children generally grossed me out, so I sort of anticipated quite a messy process here. But to my astonishment, Missy was right on cue. I watched as her water broke and how quickly she spun her large body around and ate it up in order to keep the area clean; how the baby cow gradually pushed out from behind and came tumbling down; how mamma removed its membrane so no suffocation could occur. The entire ordeal was done with such grace, courage and intuition that I almost believed a part of me had abandon its old self and embraced a new one – that by the start of Mick’s life, coincidently on my first official day at Marama, it was also an invitation for me too.

Then, two short days later, Graham and Giselle bought me these…

 Photo: Pair of gum boots

Consider my initiation complete.

 

“Courage is not the absence of fear, but rather the judgement that something else is more important than fear.”  ~Ambrose Redmoon

Heritage Day

Friday 23 September

Tomorrow is Heritage Day but since tomorrow is also a Saturday, the school celebrated Heritage Day today. The programme was supposed to start at 9 but it didn’t end up happening until 10:30 (typical). But it was worth the wait. The dancing and the singing was amazing. It was utter chaos though. They set up desks into a square and the stage kept on getting smaller and smaller because of the kids crowded into the square.

As soon as I got to school, I went and found my teachers. Normally we’re supposed to meet at noon but yesterday (Thursday) we found out about the presentation so I knew today was going to be chaotic and it was. But walking through the school was awesome because most of the learners were dressed up in traditional clothing. They even had paint on their faces. All of the volunteers got face painted as well. It was really cool and an amazing thing to see.

Anyways, next week is probably going to be more of the same chaos that I have been experiencing for the past couple of weeks. One teacher said she wasn’t sure what she was going to do next week. Another wasn’t even sure if she was going to be here. Luckily one actually knew what she was going to be doing: what she was supposed to be doing this week. And the other teacher was absent. I would say I was surprised by this but really I wasn’t. You certainly learn how to be flexible in an environment such as this.

Regardless, the programme truly was amazing and I can’t wait to look through all the different pictures people took. The coolest I think was when one of the teachers asked Matt and I to dance with the learners. It was so much fun. I absolutely love their dancing. They have this move which involves picking up one of your legs at a right angle and shaking it. It’s kinda hard to explain but I love it. I just think it’s so cool. We have been talking about starting a dance club at the school and Mel wants me to be in charge. I really just want to learn their dances to be perfectly honest. So I’m thinking that maybe we could start out by having them teach some of the volunteers some of their dances and then we can teach them some of ours. We’ll see how that goes.

Heritage Day

Friday 23 September

Tomorrow is Heritage Day but since tomorrow is also a Saturday, the school celebrated Heritage Day today. The programme was supposed to start at 9 but it didn’t end up happening until 10:30 (typical). But it was worth the wait. The dancing and the singing was amazing. It was utter chaos though. They set up desks into a square and the stage kept on getting smaller and smaller because of the kids crowded into the square.

As soon as I got to school, I went and found my teachers. Normally we’re supposed to meet at noon but yesterday (Thursday) we found out about the presentation so I knew today was going to be chaotic and it was. But walking through the school was awesome because most of the learners were dressed up in traditional clothing. They even had paint on their faces. All of the volunteers got face painted as well. It was really cool and an amazing thing to see.

Anyways, next week is probably going to be more of the same chaos that I have been experiencing for the past couple of weeks. One teacher said she wasn’t sure what she was going to do next week. Another wasn’t even sure if she was going to be here. Luckily one actually knew what she was going to be doing: what she was supposed to be doing this week. And the other teacher was absent. I would say I was surprised by this but really I wasn’t. You certainly learn how to be flexible in an environment such as this.

Regardless, the programme truly was amazing and I can’t wait to look through all the different pictures people took. The coolest I think was when one of the teachers asked Matt and I to dance with the learners. It was so much fun. I absolutely love their dancing. They have this move which involves picking up one of your legs at a right angle and shaking it. It’s kinda hard to explain but I love it. I just think it’s so cool. We have been talking about starting a dance club at the school and Mel wants me to be in charge. I really just want to learn their dances to be perfectly honest. So I’m thinking that maybe we could start out by having them teach some of the volunteers some of their dances and then we can teach them some of ours. We’ll see how that goes.

Arrival in India

So... I finally made it to Jodhpur after much a-due. I got my visa last week and had to wait to get my flight ticket because they were so expensive. But I left on Wednesday from Houston, and arrived to Jodhpur on Friday at noon. The flights were grueling and extensive. The first flight was to London, and luckily I choose the right seat and was allotted 3 seats without anyone next to me. That was nice, except I couldn’t sleep so I watched movies the whole time and felt terrible once I was in London. I had a 10 layover in London! Luckily I rented a miniature hotel that was in the airport called a Yotel (the purplish pictures below), which was like the size of a closet, but I got a couple hours of sleep before having to venture through the airport city to find my terminal, which took me 45 minutes on public transportation.

Anyways, I had a mini-freakout while getting on the flight to Delhi, which was surprising because I hadn’t felt anything until then. It’s not like I was numb to the idea, I just had no idea of what to expect, and still don’t really. But I calmed myself down and had to sit next to an older Indian couple who didn’t speak a lick of English and somehow convinced me to fill out their arrival cards because they were in English. After arriving in Jodhpur, I was terribly tired and got some errands run then checked into the guesthouse for the night. The other interns were meeting the program coordinator and myself at the guesthouse for dinner, so I took a nap then went to rooftop cafe. I met them all, all girls at this time, but chose not to eat and went straight to bed after taking a much needed shower and popping an ambien.

Today was pretty uneventful, I had my first Hindi lesson, which proved to be easy enough so far... Mai Hannah se hei (My name is Hannah). I didn’t learn much yet, but I will. Other than that, I got a cell phone, some Kurtas, long Indian shirts that women were with leggings and scarves called dupras, which I will get tomorrow. Other than that just a few orientation things and dinner with the interns. Tomorrow I go to work at the village, I think.

Definitely Not in Kansas Anymore

We know the saying, and for me, it rings true. Folks, I’m definitely not in Kansas anymore.

Because Kansas doesn’t have cinnamon-coated mountains (and some with frosting on top) nor river water so dark green the hunter himself couldn’t recognize; or the colors of the Maori; or pastures that seem to forever roll into infinity. Kansas can’t compare to the Kiwi phrase “Kia ora”. Nay, Kansas isn’t Colorado with a wrap-around beach.

After approximately 21 hours served at 30,000 feet, I woke to calm morning light pouring through the oval windows of an international aircraft. It was 10:00 pm on Sunday, September 25th as I set off from LAX and now Tuesday the 27th approaching 9:00 am. September 26, 2011 will evermore be recorded in human history as a day I never lived. The pilot announced we were starting our descent into Auckland and right there, among other passengers of multiple nationalities, I wept. A concerned flight attendant ran over, “Honey, everything alright?” And looking back to her with a grin which stretched from ear to ear, “Happiest moment of my life.”

Waiting for the boarding call to Christchurch

I had two more short flights, to Christchurch and then to Dunedin in the South Island, before I officially arrived to meet my host family. Graham found me soon after I claimed my luggage by a curious twist in his head and asked hesitantly, “Stephanie?”

Many of the farmer profiles I knew in the States, particularly Tennessee, tended to be men and women who wore frayed overalls with gloves in their back pockets, work boots, flannels that rolled up to their elbows and hats that always shaded their faces – even on public outings. But if I placed this expectation on them, it was a misguided mistake. He had on a sleek collar shirt with slim black pants and dress shoes. And Giselle, whom we caught up with later, was clothed in a blue-white dress with sleeves and dark boots; she got in the backseat of the truck, placed her hand on my shoulder and said, “Hello, Stef. How are you?” Once all together, my first impressions were they are a couple constantly on the move and didn’t tarry about breaking the ice with newcomers. I was immediately asked essential questions about myself: what I studied, where I was from, my hobbies, familiarity with farming/gardening, how the journey was, etc. This did not exclude more serious inquiry as well, like health problems, nature vs. nurture and other general conversation on subjects that are normally deemed sensitive at the dinner table.

We laughed and ate and spoke to each other without fear or judgment. It was as if the two of them simply had not known there existed a definition like stranger, as if they were champions at creating a tension-free environment for anyone willing to enter it. Their friendly gestures and admirable hospitality briefly tricked me into believing I was back in the Deep South, and the only evidence lacking was the accents. Because from minute one to the moment I fell into one of the farmhouse beds exhausted from travel, which they graciously allowed me to use for the first night, I could not help but already feel most at home.

So then again, maybe in that sense, I hadn’t really left Kansas at all.

 

“See the world/ Find an old-fashioned girl/ And when all has been said and done/ It’s the things that are given, not won/ Are the things you want.” ~Gomez

ACJ Library Day!

My contribution to the library was working on the arts and crafts room

A few weeks back I talked about going around Strand, Gordon’s Bay and Somerset West trying to collect books for the ACJ library. Well, Sunday was library day so all those books that we have been collecting and were finally supposed to put them in the library yesterday. There were about 50 GVI volunteers from all over. Mostly coordinators from different parts of the world. Richard, the CEO of GVI was there as well and on my team. We were in charge of the arts and crafts room and we were the lucky ones who got to clean up poo. Yeah, we found poop in our room so our first step was to clean that up and bleach the floor to get rid of the smell. That was first than we cleaned the walls and gave the walls a fresh coat of paint. This actually ended up taking quite some time because of limited supplies so spending lots of time searching or waiting for different things and then limited people. We originally had about four and we kept on losing team members. One of the learners had to go to another group and then Richard had a flight to catch so he left early. It was ok though. We got more helpers after lunch with was held at the orphanage. It was really good but it took forever. We were supposed to eat at 1 and we didn’t eat until two. I helped put food on the plates which apparently has to be done in a very particular way. It was fun though and the weather was crap so that meant we had to run back in forth from where the food was being prepared to where everyone was waiting.

Once lunch was done, it was back to work and we got more people to help which was good but it also made things very chaotic. I worked with Catalina on the words “arts and crafts” which you wouldn’t think would take very long but it certainly did. It looks really good though and the others worked on the rest of the walls drawing animals. I really wanted to do spatter painting though but no one else seemed to think it was a great idea LIt would have been so much fun. So the end result where lots of animals and other random things on the walls and we actually didn’t finish. Today at school some of the learners were finishing up…..They worked during break and then they were supposed to come back afterschool but I don’t know if that actually happened. Currently the arts and crafts room is still sort of a mess. There are a lot of random drawings on the walls but we do have plans to fix it up. Overall, it was a great day because ACJ now has a library to be enjoyed by all the learners!

Part of the brand new ACJ library